Cream of the crop: one brand’s quiet quest to reinvent the dairy industry

Regenerative agriculture is gaining attention as a promising method to enhance the resilience of dairy farming. But what does it actually involve? From innovative grazing methods like mob grazing to planting diverse herbal leys, this approach challenges traditional farming by focusing on the health of the entire ecosystem.

In the UK, dairy products such as milk, cheese, butter, and yogurt hold a cherished place in many homes, with 96% of adults regularly purchasing milk. However, the dairy sector is facing increasing difficulties due to climate change. This summer’s widespread droughts and heatwaves, for example, caused milk deliveries from UK farms to reach a 19-year low during May and June. As these extreme weather events become more frequent, adopting farming practices that build climate resilience is no longer optional but essential.

One inspiring example comes from Yeo Valley Organic, based in Somerset, which is embracing regenerative and organic farming principles to improve soil health and farm sustainability. Simply put, regenerative agriculture takes a holistic approach that prioritizes the wellbeing of soil, animals, wildlife, and people. It focuses on working in harmony with nature rather than depending on fossil fuel-derived chemical inputs. Will Mayor, Yeo Valley Organic’s farms development manager, sums it up aptly: it’s about “soil, not oil.” According to WWF, regenerative farming could reduce carbon emissions equivalent to taking 900,000 cars off UK roads annually. Beyond carbon, it also fosters resilience in agricultural systems. Mei Casal, a senior policy advisor at WWF UK, emphasizes that “working with nature is working towards resilience.”

While organic and regenerative agriculture share many values and practices, there are distinctions between them. Casal clarifies, “First of all, organic is regenerative. They both share practices, principles and this drive to move away from intensive farming and a way of cultivating or producing in harmony with nature.” The key difference lies in regulation—organic farming adheres to defined standards, whereas regenerative agriculture’s definition is still evolving.

At Yeo Valley Organic’s Holt Farm, dairy cows graze on diverse herbal leys consisting of various grasses, legumes, and herbs—including sunflowers—rather than just plain grass. The cows don’t eat these flowers but trample them into the soil, where they decompose like compost and improve soil health. This biodiversity not only benefits the soil but also supports a rich variety of pollinators such as bees, butterflies, hoverflies, and dragonflies. These insects help increase crop yields and provide natural pest control by feeding local birds. Tenant farmer Holly Wilkinson, who has transitioned from organic farming to regenerative practices at Fairfield Farm in Devon, admits that she initially overlooked what happens beneath the soil surface. She explains, “Unknowingly, we were improving the soil, but I wasn’t computing what we were actually doing,” highlighting how soil health can feel abstract until you see tangible differences in root structures, smell, and soil texture.

Livestock management strategies such as mob, rotational, and next-level grazing all focus on moving animals to allow grass periods of rest, mimicking natural grazing patterns. Mayor elaborates, “So, it’s high impact for short periods of time and then longer rest periods in between,” helping maintain pasture vitality.

Mayor notes that regenerative agriculture offers multiple benefits, including carbon sequestration, biodiversity enhancement, and healthier food production, with increased farm resilience as a top priority. “A diverse functional ecosystem is a more resilient ecosystem – it’s giving us the ability to continue producing food in these extreme climatic conditions,” he says.

For consumers wanting to support these practices, Casal advises that although regenerative labeling isn’t yet widespread, many brands share the stories of their farming methods on packaging. Visiting farms personally can also provide deeper insight. Mayor hopes that regenerative and organic agriculture will become the “new conventional,” but stresses that achieving this will require a major “shift of markets, metrics and mindsets,” supported by policies, finance, and business models centered on nature.

Reflecting on this transformation, Wilkinson remarks, “We want to return the land to a better [state] than we found it.” Improving cow nutrition, milk quality, and resilience to adverse weather, she adds, “we’re also setting ourselves up as a resilient business.”

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